Nautilus cups are well known to many. And lovers of decorative and applied arts, as outstanding creations of jewelers of past centuries, and admirers of painting of the 17th century – exquisite nautiluses can often be seen in the Dutch still lifes of Willem Kalf, Willem Heda and others.

For the first time in Europe, nautilus shells appeared in the 9th century. Then, in the Renaissance, with the development of navigation, nautiluses were often brought from various expeditions, and they attracted the attention of scientists and lovers of rarities. Studying the structure of the shell, the researchers discovered the patterns of its structure – the spiral shell inside was divided into chambers, the dimensions of which decreased proportionally and the shell, thus, was a natural illustration of the concept of the “golden section”.

Already in Europe, court jewelers created precious frames for shells, turning them into impressive goblets and vessels that emphasized the greatness and status of their customer. European jewelers used not only all kinds of technologies (casting, chasing, engraving, gilding, inlay, carving, etc.), but also a variety of materials (corals, ivory, precious and semi-precious stones) to create products that amaze the eye with wealth and sophistication. Often the shells were covered with decorative carvings – they were performed both in Asia and in Europe.

The Green Vault Collection in Dresden houses an impressive and very diverse collection of goblets and vessels made from nautilus shells.

Johann Heinrich Köhler, nautilus cups.

The cup shown in the photo below is quite late, it was created in 1724 by the court jeweler of Augustus the Strong, Johann Heinrich Köhler. But the history of its creation is interesting.

In 1723, August the Strong decided to open a treasure museum in the Green Vaults and instructed Köhler to describe and restore all the objects that were planned to be presented in the exhibition. In total, 155 exhibits were restored, gilded and painted in new colors by Köhler. It was then that a small but very elegant silver figurine of a satyr-like creature riding a fantastic dragon, whose tail was made of coral twigs, fell into the hands of the master.

Johann Heinrich Köhler was one of the prominent court masters of the Elector. According to researchers, he studied jewelry with his uncle Michael Köhler. In 1690, Johann came to Dresden, where he managed to build a brilliant career. He had his own workshop with two apprentices, and soon Köhler’s products attracted the attention of Augustus the Strong, who began to buy them for his collection, and in 1718 made Köhler a court jeweler.

In the 1720s, in addition to creating jewelry, Köhler was preparing the museum exposition in the Green Vaults – he carried out an inventory of the collection of Augustus the Strong, organized the transportation of exhibits of the future museum, restored them and then arranged them in showcases and on wall panels.

In 1723, August the Strong decided to open a treasure museum in the Green Vaults and instructed Köhler to describe and restore all the objects that were planned to be presented in the exhibition. In total, 155 exhibits were restored, gilded and painted in new colors by Köhler. It was then that a small but very elegant silver figurine of a satyr-like creature riding a fantastic dragon, whose tail was made of coral twigs, fell into the hands of the master.

Paired vessels in the form of a rooster and a hen

Of great interest in the Green Vaults collection are paired vessels in the form of a rooster and a hen. Similar vessels in the form of birds are found in church inventories as early as the 14th century. At that time they were used as reliquaries or water jugs. Since the beginning of the 17th century, vessels and bird shapes have become popular collectibles at the courts of European rulers. Made by the leading jewelers of their time, these vessels showcase the craftsmanship and incredible inventiveness of their creators. This pair from the Elector’s collection can be safely attributed to such.

The author of vessels in the form of a rooster and a chicken was a German jeweler and engraver of the late 16th century, Friedrich Hillebrandt. Curious how he creates his birds. Necks, wings and tails are sawn from sheets of silver and plumage is engraved on top of them, which looks rather primitive and flat compared to the heads and legs of birds. Their master cast from silver and achieved incredible naturalism, especially in the transfer of skin on the paws. This approach is probably driven by practical considerations, but it creates an interesting contrast. The shells themselves are also decorated with carved reliefs with floral motifs, which are Western European imitations of Chinese carvings.

In the collection of Augustus the Strong there were several more nautilus vessels in the form of birds.

The vessels were created in the first half of the 16th century – these are paired vessels in the form of a peacock and an ostrich by Joachim Hiller, a vessel in the form of a pelican, created by the Nuremberg master Christoph Kunad in 1609, etc.

Nautilus of Henry I Lambrecht

The collection also includes a Nuremberg goblet made from a nautilus shell, made around 1620 by the jeweler Heinrich I Lambrecht. In his design, the master tried to emphasize the marine origin of the shell with the help of decorative images associated with the sea.

Three other unique items continue the marine theme. In the collection of August the Strong there were several table sailing ships, the hulls of which were nautilus shells.

The collection of goblets and vessels made from nautilus shells was the pride of Augustus the Strong and the most interesting page in the history of Western European arts and crafts of the 16th-17th centuries. These products have become not only a symbol of the Baroque era, but also evidence of the boundless imagination and virtuosity of European jewelers.