Unique mechanical perfume boxes from India
Such caskets were very popular in Europe in the middle of the 19th century. Often they were made from two halves of shells, which opened when a button was pressed from above. Inside, several nests were soldered to the central rod, in which the perfume bottles themselves were located.
Indian masters used the same principle, only they turned their perfume boxes into precious flower buds, created using different techniques and richly decorated with precious stones and carved patterns. Both boxes demonstrate the highest craftsmanship of Indian jewelers of the second half of the 19th century.
The first box was made of gold and silver in the shape of a lotus bud with four petals. Each petal is covered with an exquisite openwork floral pattern, an equally rich relief with floral motifs adorns the base of the box. The style of floral patterns and reliefs, according to experts, is typical for the works of Madras jewelers of the 19th century.
The carved pommel of the bud is a button, when pressed, it opens and a flower tree of exceptional beauty appears to our eyes, which is the holder for several miniature golden perfume bottles. Flowers and leaves of the tree, created using the filigree technique, amaze with the subtlety of execution. Filigree in India has been actively developed over many centuries, and works created in the state of Orissa on the shores of the Bay of Bengal were highly valued. Traditionally, flat openwork filigree was widespread in Orissa, however, there are products in three-dimensional filigree technique, which are especially valuable. These include this flower tree.
It is impossible not to pay attention to miniature perfume bottles. Their faces are richly decorated with floral ornaments, and the caps are encrusted with rubies. This approach to decorating each, even the smallest element, is all the more amazing because the total size of the box is 27 x 19 x 15 cm.
A perfume box in the form of a lotus bud was presented as a gift to Edward, Prince of Wales during his official tour of the Indian subcontinent in 1875. It was presented to the Prince Maharaja of Jodhpur by Jaswant Singh II. The reign of this Maharaja was marked by the prosperity and development of the principality. For his services, the Prince of Wales during this trip made the Maharaja a Knight Grand Commander of the Order of the Star of India.
The second perfume box, made of gold covered with enamel, is even more expressive, but at the same time, its production was more laborious, since the box is half the size – its size is only 10.2 x 8.9 x 7 cm.
The box also represents a lotus bud, only here the craftsmen created not four, but eight petals. The golden bud is covered with green and red enamel, and each petal is encrusted with diamonds, which are made up of stylized images of flowers. The bud is set on a round tray with high sides, decorated on the inside with ornaments depicting acanthus leaves, and on the outside with pendants made of enameled gold leaves and pearls. The legs of the tray are shaped like yali – mythical creatures with the head and body of a lion, the trunk and tusks of an elephant. Yalis were often depicted as sculptures on the columns of South Indian temples and were considered a symbolic representation of the struggle of man with the elemental forces of nature.
The tray is richly decorated with floral patterns and eight oval medallions with hunting scenes, flowers and architectural landscapes. Four medallions are dedicated to hunting. Two medallions are compositions with flowers and green parrots. And the last two depict the famous palaces of Jaipur – Amber Fort and Chandra Mahal. These palaces are masterpieces of Indian architecture of their time. The fortified palace of Amber Fort was built in the 16th century from red and white sandstone for Raja Man Singh I.
In India, many craftsmen participated in the production of products in the enamel technique. First, the artist created a sketch of the product. Then, using it, the jeweler made this item of gold or silver. After that, the product was handed over to the engraver and he cut out the patterns. And in the end, the enameller took up the work – he covered the product with colored enamels. Thomas Holbein Hendley, who accompanied the Prince of Wales on his journey through India in 1875, wrote in his diary that this perfume box took about five years to produce. In addition, the name of the enameller was preserved – his name was Hira Singh and he came from a family of famous Jaipur enamellers.
In the 1860s – 1870s, he created a whole gallery of his own self-portraits, portraits of his wives, ministers and advisers, in fact, leaving future generations evidence of the life of ordinary mortal palaces closed from the eyes. But besides this, he took a lot of pictures of the inhabitants, the culture of his native principality, traditional costumes and life, which is no less interesting.