Details of the decoration panels with painted enamel.
Crafts Design Metal

Piguet, Capt and Meylan: musical jewels

Golden box Magician, length 8.3 cm, Piguet & Meylan mechanism, jewelry work by Chenevard Jouvet & Cie, circa 1820.
Golden box Magician, length 8.3 cm, Piguet & Meylan mechanism, jewelry work by Chenevard Jouvet & Cie, circa 1820.

In Switzerland, which has become a recognized center of watchmaking today, there is a region called Vallée de Joux, which has earned a reputation as the “cradle of fine watchmaking”, where passion for watchmaking and professional knowledge were passed down from generation to generation. It is here that the history of famous watchmaking dynasties begins: Meylan, Piguet, Audemars. In a valley closed off from the outside world, where subzero temperatures lasted for about half a year, residents were engaged in crafts that provided additional income and allowed them to support their families. Small iron reserves, known since the 15th century, made it possible to create tools and develop watchmaking.

The scene of the automaton under the lid a gentleman and a lady against the background of an enamel landscape play the lute and harp, their hands move, imitating the movements of the musicians.
The scene of the automaton under the lid a gentleman and a lady against the background of an enamel landscape play the lute and harp, their hands move, imitating the movements of the musicians.

In 1740, the son of a blacksmith named Samuel Olivier Meylan left his native valley and went to the small town of Rolle on the shores of Lake Geneva. His dream was to become a watchmaker. At that time, watchmaking was governed by guilds, which imposed a mandatory eight-year apprenticeship before becoming a watchmaker. Due to lack of money, the young watchmaker had to return home after only two years. But he continued to make watches and began to pass on his knowledge to several apprentices.

Daniel Piguet (1733–1813), the first watchmaker to bear the name Piguet, began his apprenticeship in 1749 with David Golay, who had learned the craft from Samuel Olivier Meylan himself. Thus began the history of the watchmakers of the Vallée de Joux.

The musical automaton clock Rose, decorated with enamel and pearls, Piguet & Meylan, circa 1820.
The musical automaton clock Rose, decorated with enamel and pearls, Piguet & Meylan, circa 1820.

16 Ventos, Year X of the Republic (7 March 1802) Isaac-Daniel Piguet (1775-1841) and his brother-in-law Henri-Daniel Capt (1773-1841), two young watchmakers originally from Le Cheny, a small village in the Vallée de Joux, who settled in Geneva, created a workshop producing exceptional luxury items (gold watches, snuff boxes, bonbonnieres, jewellery, etc.), incorporating horological complications, moving figures with or without music.

Gold musical perfume bottle decorated with enamel, Piguet & Capt mechanism, jewelry work with the GD mark, height 8 cm, circa 1805.
Gold musical perfume bottle decorated with enamel, Piguet & Capt mechanism, jewelry work with the GD mark, height 8 cm, circa 1805.

Isaac-Daniel married Jeanne-Françoise Capt around 1795 and settled in Geneva around 1800. The business partnership between Capt and Piguet lasted for about ten years. Then they went their separate ways. While Henri-Daniel Capt continued to work alone, Piguet joined Philippe-Samuel Meylan (1772-1845) in a new partnership. Philippe-Samuel Meylan was an experienced watchmaker who is credited with several horological improvements. Together they produced complex and beautifully decorated musical clocks, including skeleton and automaton clocks, as well as mechanical animals.

Automaton clock Barking Dog, Piguet & Meylan, circa 1815.
Automaton clock Barking Dog, Piguet & Meylan, circa 1815.

Henri-Daniel Capt, Isaac-Daniel Piguet and Philippe-Samuel Meylan were the main Geneva-based manufacturers of fantasy clocks (montre de fantasie), miniature automata and music boxes in the first third of the 19th century. Although most of their works are unsigned, they sometimes engraved their names or put trademarks on their movements.

The products of Swiss watchmakers and jewelers of the early 19th century are striking in the exquisiteness of their finishing and the perfection of their clockwork mechanisms. It is sometimes difficult to believe that these complex and miniature toys were created more than two hundred years ago. Luxury items such as this vanity case were often intended for export to the Near and Far East, where there was a huge demand for high-quality gold watches and precious trinkets such as boxes, vanity cases, and perfume bottles made of gold with bright enamels and precious stones.

The scene of the jukebox has a stationary foreground and moving figures.
The scene of the jukebox has a stationary foreground and moving figures. In the foreground is a lighthouse, a pine tree and a barrel in the waves. The background is painted with a seascape on enamel. Junks, sailboats and swans float towards the circle against this background.

They were especially prized by collectors from the upper classes of Chinese society. This extremely beautiful vanity case with a hidden watch was made in Geneva for the Chinese market in the early years of the 19th century. Let’s take a closer look.

The cylindrical body is formed by four rectangular panels covered with translucent and opaque enamel. The side panels rotate, revealing a hidden clock and the scene of the machine.
The cylindrical body is formed by four rectangular panels covered with translucent and opaque enamel. The side panels rotate, revealing a hidden clock and the scene of the machine.
Musical automaton, clock and telescope, decorated with enamel and pearls, Piguet & Meylan mechanism, jewelry work by SENÉ & NEISER, circa 1805.
Musical automaton, clock and telescope, decorated with enamel and pearls, Piguet & Meylan mechanism, jewelry work by SENÉ & NEISER, circa 1805.
Musical ring clock in a gold case with enamel and diamonds, Piguet & Capt, circa 1810.
Musical ring clock in a gold case with enamel and diamonds, Piguet & Capt, circa 1810.
A clock with a white dial and a magnifying glass in a frame are hidden under a sliding panel.
A clock with a white dial and a magnifying glass in a frame are hidden under a sliding panel.
Musical knife with a clock and a magnifying glass, decorated with enamel and pearls, length 17 cm, Piguet & Meylan, circa 1815.
Musical knife with a clock and a magnifying glass, decorated with enamel and pearls, length 17 cm, Piguet & Meylan, circa 1815.
Automatic clock in the form of a vase Country Walk, height 7 cm, Piguet & Capt, circa 1800.
Automatic clock in the form of a vase Country Walk, height 7 cm, Piguet & Capt, circa 1800.
An automaton in the form of golden cherub figures balancing on a bow shaped swing and playing musical instruments.
An automaton in the form of golden cherub figures balancing on a bow shaped swing and playing musical instruments.
A picturesque enamel panel under the clock, decorated with a scene of Helen and Paris, hides a compartment with an automaton.
A picturesque enamel panel under the clock, decorated with a scene of Helen and Paris, hides a compartment with an automaton.
Montre de Fantaisie musical amphora clock with an automaton in a gold case decorated with enamel and pearls, height 9.7 cm, Piguet & Capt, circa 1805.
Montre de Fantaisie musical amphora clock with an automaton in a gold case decorated with enamel and pearls, height 9.7 cm, Piguet & Capt, circa 1805.
Piguet and Capt were among the first Geneva craftsmen to use a musical mechanism with a drum.
Piguet and Capt were among the first Geneva craftsmen to use a musical mechanism with a drum.
Gilded parts of the mechanism.
Gilded parts of the mechanism.
Finishing details with champlevé enamel.
Finishing details with champlevé enamel.
Details of the decoration panels with painted enamel.
Details of the decoration panels with painted enamel.
Compartment for watches.
Compartment for watches.
In the upper part of the vanity case there is a gold perfume bottle with a gold stopper, pencil holders, and a watch key.
In the upper part of the vanity case there is a gold perfume bottle with a gold stopper, pencil holders, and a watch key.
Under the hinged lids, there is a compartment for watches and a compartment for miniature accessories.
Under the hinged lids, there is a compartment for watches and a compartment for miniature accessories.
Gold toiletry case in the form of a quiver, decorated with enamel, length 9.1 cm, Piguet & Capt, circa 1805.
Gold toiletry case in the form of a quiver, decorated with enamel, length 9.1 cm, Piguet & Capt, circa 1805.
In the musical compartment, there is an automaton with a golden shepherdess playing a guitar near a waterfall, set in motion by a musical mechanism.
In the musical compartment, there is an automaton with a golden shepherdess playing a guitar near a waterfall, set in motion by a musical mechanism.
In one of the compartments of the box, under a lid with allegorical love symbols, there is a watch.
In one of the compartments of the box, under the lid with allegorical love symbols, there is a clock. The lid of the jukebox is decorated with an image of musical instruments, and the compartment for aromatic substances is decorated with an image of flowers.
Music box in a gold case with three compartments, decorated with enamel and pearls, size 3.9 x 4 cm, Piguet & Capt, Geneva, circa 1810.
Music box in a gold case with three compartments, decorated with enamel and pearls, size 3.9 x 4 cm, Piguet & Capt, Geneva, circa 1810.
Mandolin clock in a gold case decorated with enamel, pearls, turquoise and diamonds, Piguet & Meylan, Geneva, circa 1820. The clock plays a melody every hour and sets in motion a swing with Cupid and a butterfly.
Mandolin clock in a gold case decorated with enamel, pearls, turquoise and diamonds, Piguet & Meylan, Geneva, circa 1820. The clock plays a melody every hour and sets in motion a swing with Cupid and a butterfly.