The fashionable wardrobe of the 18th-19th centuries was limited to a narrow set of elements – a dress, a cape, a hat, shoes. The women’s dress of that time did not provide for pockets, so all the important little things that could come in handy had to be worn on the belt. This is how the chatelaine appeared – a decorative clip with a chain on which pendants with small objects were attached – watches, scissors, a wallet or keys.

Excursion into history

Hanging household items from the belt was practiced by different cultures. In China, for example, embroidered wallets were worn this way, and in Japan – netsuke and boxes for storing various small things.

In Europe, such an accessory appeared in the Middle Ages. They called it the French word châtelain, which literally means “owner of the castle.” The keys to the main premises were attached to the chatelaine, and it was immediately possible to find out from it who was the mistress in the house. Well, or the housekeeper.

The first chatelaines were distinguished by their simplicity and practicality. It was an ordinary chain belt, wrapped around the waist of a person, to which several smaller chains were attached. Gradually the appearance of the châtelaine changed. By the beginning of the 18th century, it was already an independent accessory, clinging to clothes with a special clip. In addition, the chatelaine has become more massive and “overgrown” with decor. Noble persons preferred chatelins made of gold and silver, covered with enamel and engraving, studded with precious stones.

What was worn on the chatelaine

At the height of its popularity, châtelaine became available to everyone. On sale one could find steel and gold, everyday and “evening” chatelins. The nobility used it exclusively as a fashionable and expensive accessory, and for commoners it remained a functional necessity. The tailor carried sewing accessories on chains, the nurse – bottles of medicine and medical instruments.

In the years 1870-1880, high society chose the “Norwegian belt”, which provides for a set of interchangeable chains with various accessories. It was comfortable and practical, but too heavy.

Another type of accessory was a skirt holder, which is a clip on a chain, with which they lifted and held the hem of the dress. And some women of fashion wore a châtelaine on their shoulders. Quite original, isn’t it?

Particular attention was paid to money wallets. Usually it was a small box made of silver or gold, equipped with a spring mechanism. The size of such a coin box depended on the wealth of the owner. The richer the person, the larger the “vault”.

Medallions were also attached to the chatelaine, where portraits of close relatives or strands of hair of their beloved were placed. And there was always a place for a snuffbox made of mother-of-pearl, horn or tortoise shell, decorated with stones, inlaid with agate or heliotrope. Aristocrats always carried a personal seal. And if in the Middle Ages it was placed on a ring, now it has migrated to the chatelaine.