Gold minaudière decorated with burgauté varnish panels, pearls, diamonds and enamel, circa 1929, from the collection of Prince Sadrutdin Aga Khan.
The technique of inlaying lacquer products with mother-of-pearl originated in China. There are known lacquer objects that date back to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644). The technique has become widespread in almost all countries of Southeast Asia. In each region, this technique was called differently: in Japan – aogai, in China – lotien. And in Europe, where lacquer products from East Asia arrived during the Crusades, the French name spread – laque burgauté.
Gold minaudière decorated with burgauté panels, lapis lazuli, turquoise, diamonds and enamel, circa 1928, from the collection of Prince Sadrutdin Aga Khan.
Initially, this was the name given to imported items made of black lacquer, inlaid with mother-of-pearl from the iridescent blue-green shell of abalone, which is also called abalone. Later, the name laque burgauté was applied to all lacquer products with colored tinted mother-of-pearl. Shell inlay is often complemented by engraving. This exquisite finish was used to decorate small objects and to finish furniture.
Lacquer items inlaid with mother-of-pearl, which were exported to Europe, became models for European craftsmen who tried to reproduce the oriental style in their works. The technique developed and improved and was even used to decorate products made from unglazed porcelain.
Gold minaudière decorated with burgauté panels, emeralds, coral, enamel, diamonds and jade, circa 1927, from the collection of Prince Sadrutdin Aga Khan.Gold minaudière decorated with burgauté landscape panels, rubies, moonstone, diamonds and jade, length 9.5 cm, Cartier, circa 1925.
The return of interest in the burgauté technique in the 20th century is associated with the Art Deco period. Jewelry of that time often used lacquer panels with tinted mother-of-pearl, imported from China and Japan.
Cartier products with lacquer panels are a reflection of Louis Cartier’s passion for the art of the East. He systematically collected imported Asian lacquer panels from leading Parisian antique dealers. They were then mounted in cosmetic bags, powder compacts, cigarette cases and other luxury items, which were popular with wealthy clients and gave rise to a whole series of imitations.
Hand mirror, decorated with a panel depicting a riverside scene, framed in gold, length 10.5 cm, Cartier, circa 1930.Cigar box and cigarette holder in the form of a pagoda in silver, finished with burgauté panels, Cartier, circa 1920.Sewing box decorated with black lacquer in the burgauté style, England, circa 1850, from the collection of the Cooper Hewitt Museum.Chair decorated with black lacquer in the burgauté style, England, mid 19th century, from the collection of the Cooper Hewitt Museum.Metal snuff box decorated with black burgauté lacquer and gold, Johann Martin Heinrici, Dresden, circa 1745 1755, from the collection of the Cooper Hewitt Museum.Metal box and tray, decorated with black lacquer (laque burgauté) in a gold frame, length 12 cm, Johann Martin Heinrici, Dresden, around 1760, from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.The box is assembled from Chinese lacquer panels in a French made frame.Snuff box with black lacquer panels with fancy turbo marmoreus mother of pearl inlay in gold frame, length 7.6 cm, circa 1745, from the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum.Japanese lacquer tray from the Ryukyu Island (Okinawa) with dragons, 18th century.It is believed that this table was made for export to Deshima Island in Nagaski Bay.Japanese export lacquer table with polychrome painted mother of pearl inlay, Nagasaki, mid 19th century.Black burgauté lacquer box depicting a fisherman catching fish from a sampan, China, 18th century.A small lacquer dish depicting figures in a river landscape, diameter 12.5 cm, China, 18th century.Tobacco bottle in the form of a cicada in burgauté lacquer, length 9 cm, Japan, around 1900.Porcelain teapot on a stand depicting garden pavilions, decorated with burgauté varnish, China, early 18th century.Porcelain vase from the Kangxi period (1662–1722) depicting flowers and stones, decorated with burgauté varnish, height 21 cm, China, from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.Tiered black lacquer box (laque burgauté) with mother of pearl inlay, height 18 cm, China, 19th century.Box in the shape of a mandarin duck, burgauté varnish, length 8.6 cm, China, 18th 19th centuries.
